Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Visit To Koreana Plaza

I spent my formative years in northern Orange County where there was a sizeable Korean population. To this day, I carry a strange relationship to Korean food. It was the stuff all the cool kids ate, at least in elementary school. By the fifth grade, I insisted that I bring a bowl of instant kimchi noodles with a thermos of hot water, even though it fogged up my glasses and the spiciness made me drink two cartons of lukewarm milk. When my mom was too tired to cook and not desperate enough to pick up a pizza, my family would go to a nearby supermarket and eat in their food court: jajang myun, bimbimbap, a spicy chirashi, and korean sushi with bright yellow daikon. For birthdays, Tea would request a dinner at a tofu soup restaurant where'd we order a tofu soup, a sizzling platter of kalbi (beef short ribs), and stone pot rice. It was a wonderful compromise: it wasn't Chinese food, but it was still Asian enough for the parents.
We went to Koreana Plaza today. There is something magical about other Asian markets. They carry a lot of the same foods as Ranch 99, but at lower prices (though they have their markups, too). Quail eggs. Straw mushrooms. A dozen eggs for 99 cents. Salmon fish heads at an unprecedented 39 cents a pound. At 99, they cost around $2. And Berkeley Bowl sometimes have bagged heads on ice for about $1 a pound.
Fish heads might sound disgusting, but Anthony Bourdain says that they are often the most delicious part. And you'd figure that heads are pretty important and a lot of nutrients should be allocated to it. And besides, once you cut it up and pan fry it, you just have luscious chunks of orange flesh that comes off in big flakes and bits of crispy skin.
We also bought the makings of Tteokbokki! A spicy dish of red chili past, rice logs, fish cake, and cabbage. For years, we went to a local korean restaurant and chorused, "TA-pooki." Somehow the waitress always understood.


In other news, we also soft boiled quail eggs. I love runny yolks. I love my eggs sunny side up on toast, fried on the outside and gooey on the inside on rice, and lightly poached over ramen.
Our youngest sister eats quail eggs like a monster. She nips the tips off, sucks up the yolk, and then pops the empty whites into her mouth. It’s slightly disturbing to watch.


They were super easy to make.
First, bring the eggs to room temperature in a bowl of cold water. Then, bring a pot of salted water into a rolling boil. Gently, lower the eggs into the water, cover and cook for a minute. Turn off the burner, let it sit covered for another minute, before returning it to the bowl of cold water. Peel, eat, and enjoy.





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Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Failed Gnocchi and Other Treasures


I think it's just as important to chronicle failures as successes. If you don't, you might an unrealistically inflated sense of yourself. On Sunday, my sister, Tea, and I made our much anticipated experiment of gnocchi. I tried some a few years ago and was not impressed by this dense pasta, but the article on 101 Cookbooks assured me that "real" gnocchi was wonderful, delightful, and fit for gods. And besides, they looked like little caterpillars but cuter.
Since Tea eschews anything lemony including basil and bergamot, we decided to go with a Martha Stewart recipe of Gnocchi with Summer Vegetables. The sauce was tasty but the gnocchi themselves were a soft, mushy mess. :(


I suspected the uneven breaking down of the potatoes and the lack of an egg yolk, which both probably signal gross character flaws (i.e. not being meticulous and being stingy). Since we halved the recipe, one egg seemed to be more than enough so I used an egg white I had left over from a slightly less catastrophic creme anglaise. In a true Eeyore fashion, I should just go back to eating thistles. Just as tasty and less messy. The dough was extremely soft and would not hold its shape and led to desperate additions of flour.
We fried them after the first batch became a sad, wet mess at the bottom of the colander. The early batches came out tasting like fried mashed potatoes (not so bad), but the later ones were disgustingly floury and recalled kindergarten memories of do-it-yourself paste.

We also visited the monthly Antiques by the Bay in Alameda where I purchased a silver pendant of an elephant with an amber tummy and spotted this charming frog! So I guess the day was not without some boons.
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Sunday, July 5, 2009

Celebratory Almond Tart


I made this to celebrate the return of my mother and hopefully, the end of my reign in the kitchen.

The recipe comes from Chez Panisse and Alice Waters . I found an online version on David Leibovitz's blog. His pictures are waaay prettier than mine. I also ended up making lots of adjustments due to my meager supplies. First of all, no tart tin so I used a pie tin. I don't recommend this, because the crust flopped down halfway through. Not sagged a little, but think "pancake." I also omitted the lemon zest, because someone refuses to touch lemony things. Also, no Grand Marnier because $45 for a bottle?! :(
Yet, despite all these difficulties that tart still turned out really good. True to its description, it turned out very crisp and cookie-like, though more crumbly than I expected. I used vanilla scented sugar, which is just old vanilla beans buried in sugar, and I think it mellowed out the sweetness.
The best thing was watching my mom devour a quarter of it (the last quarter) at breakfast the next day with her cup of decaf coffee.
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Saturday, July 4, 2009

4th of July


My 4th of July Tiramisu with decaf coffee was a success!
My mom ate some this morning along with my sister’s green tea and red bean jelly roll. I was planning to save it for dessert, but my mom is still really jetlagged and the slightest amount of caffeine (even chocolate?!) will prevent her from sleeping. It tasted a little to cheese-cakey for me due to the high cream cheese to heavy cream ratio. The recipe is called Easy Tiramisu. I halved the recipe and coated half of the lady fingers in a chocolate ganache that was leftover from my deflationary macaroons.

I had some too with Hong Kong Style Milk Tea. My mom brought back about two gallon bags back worth of it. The tea powder looks like instant espresso and we make it in a coffee maker and sweeten it with some condensed milk. Her friends prefer to do it with evaporated milk and sugar cubes. It has a slight burnt taste, which is much more appealing than it sounds.

I also got a lot of clothes from Hong Kong and the tags are especially amusing: Give YOU Great Comfort when You Work and Move. The brand name is “Bitter gourd muskmelon.”
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Friday, July 3, 2009

East Meets West Chicken Soup


All great cultures have some sort of chicken soup. I think it's a mom thing.

A few days ago, we were kind of down. My mom was still in Hong Kong and over a week of cooking dinner every night was starting to be a drag for my sister and I. Seriously, we’d get home after five and dinner was expected at 6:30. We averaged three dishes a night (veggie, meat, and mystery) plus rice. And my dad hates the smell of cheese and onions, and refuses to eat bread so that eliminated most western foods. Sadly, he shot down the idea of Cheeseboard pizza.

One of the reasons I like chicken soup is that it’s super easy. I had two chicken breast bones left over from rosemary parmesan chicken and Chicken Salad Havarti Wraps. So I simmered the bones in a pot of water with a few stalks of celery and half a carrot. I’m not much of a carrot fan. I stripped the meat off the bones so it wouldn’t dry out and returned the bones to the broth. I also had half a chicken breast. My sister doesn’t like actual chicken in her soup.

Forty-five minutes later, the broth still tasted a little thin. I usually like to sauté some ground turkey to thicken the soup and I also let it simmer for a few hours, but time was in short supply so I added some canned chicken stock that my co-chef had used in that night’s egg custard. It helped a little. In the end, we had to utilize my mom’s secret soup weapon: salt pork. I’m not sure what the Chinese name is, but the meat label says, “Open Plu,” whatever that means. For some reason, there’s something in the salt pork that just screams, CHICKEN!!!

We also added these lovely rice ovalettes. You don’t have to cook them separately, and they also don’t drink up all your soup like other pastas.

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Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Leftovers



Maxim's Veggie Surprise is one of the few dishes in my repertoire that my sister likes to eat. An added bonus is that my other sister will eat it too. The green tint of the dish is due to my aging camera. The sauce is actually a bright red and I've thought of Pixar's Ratatouille the last few times I've made it.
We made a big batch over the weekend (just days after we watched UP!) because it's super easy to make and provides for good leftovers. While we didn't have meaty mushrooms, we did add sweet corn which gave it a southwestern twist. Take that, Bobby Flay! In addition to having it over rice or on a bed of noodles, here are two other ways to eat this vegan tomato-based dish.

1.Make it un-vegan.

Tawny likes adding an egg to the cold dish and baking it in a hot water bath for fifteen to twenty minutes, until the egg is opaque. It's delish over rice or with toasted lavash bread.

2. Make it not vegetarian.

Melody was more than happy to eat it after Tawny and I made her a pizza with the Maxim-mix in place of spaghetti sauce on lavash bread. Then we added bites of rosemary Parmesan chicken and bits of prosciutto and lots and lots of mozzarella cheese.
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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Lindsey’s Fruit Galette from Alice Waters and Chez Panisse





I recently discovered a food section in the Berkeley Bioscience Library. Over the course of one week, I went through Alice Waters and Chez Panisse and Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential. I'm currently skimming through Chez Panisse Desserts . Frankly, while I really enjoyed reading the books, it actually made me less inclined to try fine dining (if I could ever afford it).
The Chez Panisse book really approached food as an art and it would go on and on with descriptions of the dishes. It all sounded delicious, but I know for a fact that I could never detect and hence enjoy the subtle nuances that the author goes and on and on about. Bourdain's book makes me a little scared of fine dining and its punky gatekeepers.
I was super excited about Chez Panisse Desserts because I thought it would help me re-create this lovely poached pear tart from La Farine. It has this wonderful custard base on which the fruit sits on. The cookbook lists several custard recipes, but I just don't have the ingredients. Nor do I really want to experiment with vanilla beans and come off with inedible but expensive crud. I have already tried to make macaroons twice in two weeks with deflationary results.
I did have lots of fun making different fruit galettes. The first one is nectarines and plums and the one below is strawberries and blueberries. The strawberry cooked into a jammish substance, which was yummy but not visually appealing.

They're really quick and fun to make. You just sort of throw together the dough (flour, butter, ice water, and salt) and while its resting in the fridge, cut up the fruit into even pieces. Then you roll out the dough, measure and trim it with a plate, spread a flour-sugar mixture onto the center, layer the fruit, fold, sprinkle the whole mess with sugar, and then pop it into the oven. Voila!

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